How to Build Floating Frame

A floating frame offers a clean, contemporary way to elevate your favorite artwork. By creating a gap between the art and the frame, it produces a subtle shadow that gives the illusion of the canvas floating inside. This minimalist style draws the eye directly to the artwork itself, making it a popular choice for modern decor, especially for gallery-wrapped canvases. While custom framing can be expensive, learning the basic steps can be a rewarding and cost-effective project. This guide will provide a clear, step-by-step walkthrough of how to build floating frame, empowering you to create a professional-looking display for your art.

To begin, gather the necessary materials and tools. You will need wood strips for the frame, a saw for cutting the wood to size, sandpaper to smooth the edges, wood glue, clamps, a measuring tape, screws, a drill, and paint or stain for the finishing touch. Carefully measure the dimensions of your canvas and ensure that the wood strips are cut to fit snugly around it, leaving a small gap to create the floating effect. Sand the edges and surfaces of the wood to remove any rough spots, ensuring a clean and polished appearance for your frame. Once prepared, you are ready to assemble the pieces into a cohesive structure.

Materials and Tools Needed

Before you begin, gathering the right materials and tools will make the process much smoother. For the frame itself, you’ll need wood; common choices include pine for an affordable option or hardwoods like maple or poplar for a more refined look. You’ll also need wood glue for strong joints, and either brad nails or small screws for reinforcement.

To create the floating effect, you’ll need thin strips of wood, like lattice or quarter-round moulding, to act as spacers. For mounting the art, you will need offset clips or screws. Finally, you’ll need hanging hardware, such as D-rings and picture wire.

10 Methods for How to Build a Floating Frame

Method 1: Measure Your Artwork

The foundation of a good frame is accurate measurements. Start by measuring the exact height and width of your canvas or artwork. Since you want a consistent gap around the art, you need to add that desired spacing to your measurements. A typical gap for a floating frame is between 1/4 and 1/2 inch. So, for a 1/4-inch gap, you would add 1/2 inch (1/4 inch on each side) to both the height and width of your canvas. These final numbers will be the inside dimensions of your main frame. Double-check your math before moving on to cut your wood.

Method 2: Cut the Main Frame Pieces

With your final inside dimensions calculated, it’s time to cut the four pieces for the outer frame. A miter saw is the best tool for this job as it ensures clean, precise 45-degree angles, which are essential for perfect corners. Set your saw to a 45-degree angle and make your cuts. Remember that your measurements correspond to the inside (short side) of the mitered cut. Cut two pieces for the height and two for the width. Accuracy here is critical; even a small error can result in a frame that doesn’t fit together squarely.

Method 3: Assemble the Main Frame

Now it’s time to bring the frame together. Apply a thin, even layer of wood glue to the mitered faces of one corner. Press the two pieces together firmly, making sure the top and bottom surfaces are flush. A corner clamp is incredibly helpful here to hold the joint at a perfect 90-degree angle while the glue sets. Repeat this process for all four corners until you have a complete rectangular frame. Use a damp cloth to wipe away any excess glue that squeezes out of the joints before it dries.

Method 4: Reinforce the Corners

While wood glue creates a strong bond, reinforcing the corners adds crucial long-term durability, especially for larger frames. Once the glue has had some time to set (but is not necessarily fully cured), you can add brad nails or small screws. If using a brad nailer, shoot one or two nails through the side of the frame into the adjoining piece at each corner. If using screws, pre-drill a pilot hole to prevent the wood from splitting, then drive in the screw. This mechanical fastening ensures your corners will stay tight for years to come. This is a vital step in learning how to build floating frame that lasts.

Method 5: Cut and Install the Spacers

The spacers are what create the signature floating illusion. These are thin strips of wood that will be attached to the inside face of the main frame, creating a recess for the canvas to sit in. Measure the inside dimensions of your assembled frame and cut four spacer pieces to fit, also with 45-degree mitered corners. Apply glue to the back of these spacer strips and place them on the inside face of the frame. They should be set back from the front edge of the main frame by a distance equal to the thickness of your canvas plus about 1/8 inch.

Method 6: Finish the Frame

With the assembly complete, it’s time to apply a finish. First, fill any small nail holes with wood filler and let it dry. Then, sand the entire frame, starting with a medium-grit sandpaper (like 120) and moving to a finer grit (like 220) for a smooth surface. Be sure to lightly sand the sharp corners to avoid a razor-sharp edge. After wiping away all the sanding dust, you can apply your chosen finish. Whether you choose paint, stain, or a clear oil finish, apply it evenly according to the product’s instructions. A good finish not only looks professional but also protects the wood.

Method 7: Attaching the Artwork

This is the step where it all comes together. Carefully place your canvas into the frame. It should rest against the spacers you installed, with an even gap all the way around. To secure it, you will use offset clips. These Z-shaped clips are designed for this exact purpose. Screw one end of the clip into the back of the frame and the other end onto the back of the canvas stretcher bars. Use at least four clips—one on each side—for a smaller canvas, and more for a larger, heavier piece.

Method 8: The “Backwards” Build Method

An alternative construction method involves building the frame from the back to the front. In this approach, you first attach your canvas to a piece of plywood that is cut to be slightly smaller than the canvas. Then, you build the outer frame pieces and attach them directly to the edges of the plywood backing. This method can be simpler for beginners as it doesn’t require separate interior spacers. The plywood itself creates the recess, and the frame is built around the art, ensuring a perfect fit every time.

Method 9: Creating the Floating Illusion for a Photo

While floating frames are typically for canvases, you can adapt the design for a matted photograph or print. To do this, you will mount your print onto a rigid backing board, like foam core. Then, using small blocks of wood or additional layers of foam core as risers, you can elevate the mounted print from the main backer board of the frame. When placed inside a deep frame (like a shadow box), this creates a beautiful floating effect for paper art, giving it depth and dimension.

Method 10: Installing the Hanging Hardware

The final step is to attach the hardware so you can hang your masterpiece. The most common and secure method is to use two D-rings and picture wire. Measure down about one-third of the way from the top of the frame on both the left and right sides. Screw a D-ring into the back of the frame at each of these points. Then, cut a piece of picture wire that is about 6 inches longer than the distance between the rings. Thread the wire through the rings and twist it securely. This setup ensures your frame will hang securely and level on the wall.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

What Is the Best Wood to Use for a Floating Frame?

For a first-time project, pine is a great choice because it’s affordable and easy to work with. If you’re looking for a more high-end finish, hardwoods like poplar (which is great for painting), maple, or oak are excellent options. They are more durable and have a finer grain, which can look beautiful with a simple clear finish.

What Is a Good Size for the “Float” Gap?

The size of the gap between the artwork and the frame is a matter of personal preference, but a standard gap is typically between 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch. A smaller gap provides a subtle, refined look, while a larger gap creates a more dramatic floating effect. Consider the size of your artwork when deciding—a larger piece can often handle a wider gap.

Can I Build a Floating Frame Without a Miter Saw?

Yes, you can. While a miter saw makes the process faster and more precise, you can achieve great results with a simple hand saw and a miter box. A miter box is an inexpensive jig that guides your hand saw to make perfect 45-degree cuts. It requires more patience and effort, but it’s a perfectly viable option for a DIYer.

How Do You Attach the Canvas to the Frame?

The best way to attach a gallery-wrapped canvas into a floating frame is with offset clips (also called “Z-clips”). These small, Z-shaped metal brackets are designed to bridge the gap between the back of the frame and the back of the canvas. You simply screw one end into the frame and the other end into the canvas’s stretcher bar.

Can You Put Glass or Acrylic in a Floating Frame?

Traditionally, floating frames for canvases are left open with no glass, as the art often has texture and is already protected by varnish. However, if you are framing a delicate print or photograph using a floating mount technique, you can absolutely use a deep frame, like a shadow box, that incorporates glass or acrylic for protection.

Conclusion

Building your own floating frame is a deeply satisfying project that allows you to create a custom, professional-looking display for your artwork. With a bit of patience and attention to detail, you can craft a frame that not only protects your art but enhances its visual impact. The key takeaways are to measure carefully, make precise cuts, and finish the wood properly. By learning how to build a floating frame, you unlock a new skill that adds a personal, handmade touch to your home decor, turning your cherished art into a true showpiece.